Monday, July 7, 2014

Amineko..a little kitty for a little girl

This little, sleepy kitty was made for my 6 week old niece Anna.

Anna's new sleepy kitty

I made him from
this free Japanese pattern

 I decided to make a little storybook with lots of pictures
that Anna could enjoy as she got older.
His first day was filled with adventures
including rolling in a tube

tumbling kitty
and ended with a nap beside my own little cat Mew.

Mew and kitty

I hope Anna has lots of adventures of her own
with her new little kitty.

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Hobbes has learned to speak Danish

 Hobbes
Hobbes made from my original English pattern
I always knew that Hobbes was a clever tiger
but I never knew he spoke Danish.
Actually he had some help from Marianne Topping.

Marianne came to me a while back wanting
to translate my pattern into Danish so that
she could share it with her facebook group.
I am pleased to host it here.
Her group crochets an animal each month
and Hobbes is their pick for February.
Check out their group here
for pics of their projects
including Hobbes.
Also you can see what Marianne
is up to 

I can't wait to see all the little Danish Hobbes!


Thursday, January 9, 2014

Granny is keeping warm


 For Christmas  I wanted to make
a hot water bottle cosy for my daughter-in-law.
I bought
 a pattern by Millionbells on Ravelry
 because of the way the grannies
were laid out on the diagonal.
But as I worked on the pattern I soon discovered that there was
no opening to remove the bottle.
 Having a cosy that was removable was important
to me because I didn't want to end up
with a wet cosy every time I filled it.

Unfortunately adding an opening to the pattern
 would be difficult because of the layout
of the grannies.
Believe me I tried.
 So I decided to make up my own pattern
using the same squares that I had already made from pattern.
 
Hot water bottle cosy

For the opening I went with a long zipper
 that wrapped around three sides.
This made it easy to insert or
remove the bottle without stretching
the cosy out of shape.

Hot water bottle cosy with zippered opening




Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Xmas ornaments love red cups

xmas ornaments nestled in bed
One thing that I really hate about Christmas
 is putting all the ornaments away.
Unlike the tree trimming part there is no party 
with family and food.
There's just me and the cat and a lot of tissue paper.
I wrap the paper around the ornaments 
and put them away in boxes.
She jumps into the boxes and tears apart the tissue paper.

But this year, thanks to Pinterest 
I did something different.

xmas ornaments

First I glued a bunch of red cups 
to the bottom of a plastic tote.
Then I filled them up with ornaments,
putting a delicate one in each 
followed by a couple of soft ones to cushion it.
I also stuck in some of the pre-torn 
tissue paper (thanks kitty).
I made a second layer using cardboard 
as the base.

It was ridiculously simple and hassle free.

Monday, October 14, 2013

Here's another free Hobbes crochet pattern

A few weeks back I was lucky enough to meet a fellow
Ravelry member who goes by the username
Miahandcrafter.
The more we spoke the more I realized
how kind and talented she is.

Out of this meeting came a variation of my Hobbes pattern
which was co-created by myself and Mia
which we'd like to share with you.

So you now you have 2 patterns to choose from.
Our new version posted below
and my Original Hobbes pattern here

Finished Hobbes

 But before we get to our pattern
here is a bit about Mia:

When did you first start crocheting? 
''I think I started crocheting in January of 2010.
I went to my grandma’s house to have some crochet lessons with her.
So, she helped me out with my first project, 
which was an awesome Kero pattern
created by Ournew from Craftster.''

Why did you choose to make amigurumi?
''Well, I’ve always been a lover of plushes.
Being more realistic, I’m an addicted to plushies, lol.
My room is full of them in any size you can imagine.
So, when I discovered that I could do my own plushies with crochet, I went crazy! 
That’s when I decided to learn crochet and make every plush I desire.''

Who inspired and supported you?
''The person who inspired me to crochet is my Grandma,
because she does lovely works, which I’ve always been a fan.
It was also her, my boyfriend and my parents
who gave me support to start learning crochet."
Why did you decide to start your blog?
  ''I decided to create a blog in order to share my amigurumi patterns 
and help other crocheters with some tutorials. 
The urge to create my blog came from my admiration 
of all crocheters who share their patterns for free, 
especially WolfDreamer. 
I think there’s nothing better than 
to find the desired pattern for free!''
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Check out Mia's wonderful site called
 Mia's Atelier
It's full of great free designs like
Gengar, R2D2, Charizard, Majin Buu, Princess Lumpy Space 
and my personal favourite Jake the Dog!!!!


You can also find her
So without further delay here is our pattern.

 Hobbes Crochet Pattern 
by sukigirl and miahandcrafter



hobbes reading
Materials:
- Black, Orange, Red and White yarn;
- Black Felt;
- Fiberfill;
- G (4mm) Crochet Hook;
- Tapestry Needle;
- Contact Glue or Fabric Glue.

Notes:
1. This pattern uses 100% acrylic yarn. Thickness is 3/6 Nm (Don’t know “Nm”? Click here).
(Yarn used was Le Mont by Circulo.....you can substitute a DK weight)
2. Hobbes measures 21 inches (53cm) from ears to feet.
3. In this pattern it is necessary to join the rounds, because of Haroldo’s stripes (black tiger stripes)! If you don’t do that, the stripes will be irregular and won’t look good, so, I recommend you to join the rounds! (If you don’t know how to join rounds, watch this video)
4. For sewing the pieces together you will use the tapestry needle.
5. His eyes, nose, mouth and head stripes will be made of felt.
Any doubts feel free to leave a comment on our blogs. You may also e-mail us.

Pattern:
- Body
Start using the orange yarn.
Round 1: 6 Sc in MR. (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc in each Sc (12)
Round 3: sc, 2 Sc in next Sc (18)
Now, before starting the round 4, change to the black yarn.
Round 4: sc 2, 2 sc in next sc (24)
Round 5: sc 3, 2 sc in next sc (30)
Round 6: sc 4, 2 sc in next sc (36)
Now, before starting the round 7, change to the orange yarn.
Round 7: sc 5, 2 sc in next sc (42)
Round 8: sc 6, 2 sc in next sc (48)
Round 9: sc 7, 2 sc in next sc (54)
Now, before starting the round 10, change to the black yarn.
Round 10: sc 8, 2 sc in next sc (60)
Round 11-12: sc in each sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 13, change to the orange yarn.
Round 13-15: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 16, change to the black yarn.
Round 16-18: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 19, change to the orange yarn.
Round 19-21: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 22, change to the black yarn.
Round 22-24: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 25, change to the orange yarn.
Round 25-27: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 28, change to the black yarn.
Round 28-30: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 31, change to the orange yarn.
Round 31-33: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 34, change to the black yarn.
Round 34-36: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 37, change to the orange yarn.
Round 37-39: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 40, change to the black yarn.
Round 40-42: Sc in each Sc (60)
Now, before starting the round 43, change to the orange yarn.
Round 43: Sc 8, dec (54)
Round 44-45: sc in each sc (54)
Now, before starting the round 46, change to the black yarn.
Round 46: Sc 7, dec (48)
Round 47-48: sc in each sc (48)
Now, before starting the round 49, change to the orange yarn.
Round 49: Sc 6, dec (42)
Round 50: sc in each sc (42)
Round 51: sc 5, dec (36)
Now, before starting the round 52, change to the black yarn.
Round 52: sc in each sc (36)
Round 53: sc 4, dec (30)
Finish off.

- Head
Make it using just the orange yarn. (Then, we will do the head stripes with black felt)
Round 1: 6 Sc in MR. (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc in each Sc (12)
Round 3: sc, 2 Sc in next Sc (18)
Round 4: sc 2, 2 sc in next sc (24)
Round 5: sc 3, 2 sc in next sc (30)
Round 6: sc 4, 2 sc in next sc (36)
Round 7: sc 5, 2 sc in next sc (42)
Round 8: sc 6, 2 sc in next sc (48)
Round 9: sc 7, 2 sc in next sc (54)
Round 10-12: sc in each sc (54)
Round 13: sc 8, 2 sc in next sc (60)
Round 14-31: sc on each sc (60)
Round 32: sc 8, dec (54)
Round 33: sc 7, dec (48)
Round 34: sc 6, dec (42)
Round 35: sc 5, dec (36)
Round 36: sc 4, dec (30)
Finish off and leave a long tail to sew the head to the body.

- Muzzle
Make it using white yarn.
Row 1: ch 17, then sc 16 from the second ch from hook (16)
Row 2: inc, sc 14, inc (18)
Row 3:inc, sc 16, inc (20)
Row 4: inc, sc 18, inc (22)
Row 5: inc, sc 20, inc (24)
Row 6: sc in each sc (24)
Row 7: sc in each sc (24)
Row 8: sc in each sc (24)
Row 9: dec, sc 20, dec (22)
Row 10: dec, sc 18, dec (20)
Row 11: dec, sc 16, dec (18)
Row 12: dec, sc 14, dec (16)
Now, crochet sc’s around the muzzle to give it an edge and then finish off, leaving a long tail to sew it to the head.

- Ears
Make it using black yarn.
Round 1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
Round 3: Sc in each Sc (12)
Round 4: sc, 2 sc in next sc (18)
Round 5: sc in each sc (18)
Round 6: sc 2, 2 sc in next sc (24)
Round 7-9: sc in each sc (24)
Finish off and leave a long tail to sew it to the head.

- Legs
Start using the White yarn.
Round 1: 6 Sc in MR (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc in each Sc (12)
Round 3: Sc, 2 Sc in next (18)
Round 4: Sc 2, 2 Sc in next (24)
Round 5: Sc 3, 2 Sc in next (30)
Round 6-9: Sc in each Sc (30)
Now, before starting the round 10, change to the black yarn.
Round 10-12: Sc in each Sc (30)
Now, before starting the round 13, change to the orange yarn.
Round 13-15: Sc in each Sc (30)
Now, before starting the round 16, change to the black yarn.
Round 16-18: Sc in each Sc (30)
Now, before starting the round 19, change to the orange yarn.
Round 19-21: Sc in each Sc (30)
Now, before starting the round 22, change to the black yarn.
Round 22-24: Sc in each Sc (30)
Now, before starting the round 25, change to the orange yarn.
Round 25-27: Sc in each Sc (30)

- Arms
Start using White yarn.
Round 1: 6 Sc in MR (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc in each Sc (12)
Round 3: Sc, 2 Sc in next (18)
Round 4: Sc 2, 2 Sc in next (24)
Round 5: Sc 11, inc (26)
Round 6-9: sc in each sc (26)
Now, before starting the round 10, change to the black yarn.
Round 10-12: sc in each sc (26)
Now, before starting the round 13, change to the orange yarn.
Round 13-15: sc in each sc (26)
Now, before starting the round 16, change to the black yarn.
Round 16-18: sc in each sc (26)
Now, before starting start the round 19, change to the orange yarn.
Round 19-21: sc in each sc (26)
Now, before starting the round 22, change to the black yarn.
Round 22-24: sc in each sc (26)
Now, before starting the round 25, change to the orange yarn.
Round 25-27: sc in each sc (26)
Now, we will work in rows, before we start we should change our yarn to the black one.
Row 28: 13 sc (13)
Row 29: 11 sc (11)
Row 30: 9 sc (9)
Finish off and leave a long tail to sew the arm to the body.

- Underbelly
Make it using white yarn.
Chain 9
Row 1: sc 8 (8)
Row 2: inc , sc 6, inc (10)
Row 3: inc, sc 8, inc (12)
Row 4: inc, sc 10, inc (14)
Row 5: inc, sc 12, inc (16)
Row 6: inc, sc 14, inc (18)
Row 7-35: sc in each sc (18)
Row 36: dec, sc 14, dec (16)
Row 37-47: sc in each sc (16)
Now, crochet sc’s around the underbelly to give it an edge and then finish off, leaving a long tail to sew it to the body.

- Tail
Start the tail using black yarn.
Round 1: 6 Sc in MR (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc in each Sc (12)
Round 3-7: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 8, change to the orange yarn.
Round 8-10: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 11, change to the black yarn.
Round 11-13: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 14, change to the orange yarn.
Round 14-16: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 17, change to the black yarn.
Round 17-19: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 20, change to the orange yarn.
Round 20-22: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 23, change to the black yarn.
Round 23-25: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 26, change to the orange yarn.
Round 26-28: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 29, change to the black yarn.
Round 29-31: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 31, change to the orange yarn.
Round 31-33: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 34, change to the black yarn.
Round 34-36: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 37, change to the orange yarn.
Round 37-39: sc in each sc (12)
Now, before starting the round 40, change to the black yarn.
Round 40-42: sc in each sc (12)

- Scarf
Make it using red yarn.
Row 1: ch 9, then sc 8 from the second ch from hook (8)
Row 2-125: sc in each sc (8)
Finish off. At the end my scarf was measuring about 69cm.
Now, let’s do the scarf details. It is simple, you just have to cut some pieces of yarn and then tie these pieces on the two tips of the scarf.

Assembly:
First, stuff the head, body, arms, legs and tail. Then you should sew the muzzle and ears to the head (if you want, you can put some fiber between the muzzle and the head). Then, you should sew the underbelly to the body. After this, sew the head, legs and tail to the body.
Finally, sew his arms to his body. To do this,  you will place his arms with the Rows up. They should be placed up in order to make his arms be closest to his body. If you do not do that, the arms will make 90 degrees with the body. Take a look in the photo bellow:
Arm side view
The black rows are placed up.
arm
The black rows are placed up.
arm2
As you can see, in the bottom are placed the last Rounds.
Now, we need to do the back head stripes. For this, cut 4 pieces of black felt and glue this four pieces in the back. Then, cut two more pieces and glue them between the ears. (Use the pictures as reference)
Finally, make the eyes, nose and mouth froom black felt. Cut the pieces and glue them to the face. (Use the pictures as reference)
That’s it! Now you may hug your Hobbes plush a lot!!


We did not create this character, Hobbes is copyright of Bill Watterson!!
This Pattern was created by Ann Stiver-Balla and Ana Amélia Mendes Galvão. Please do not claim our pattern as yours; If you use this pattern, give us the credits; If you wish to share this pattern, you may create a link to our blogs, but please do not post it on your site; You may not sell this pattern; As well, respect Bill Watterson copyright and do not sell any items made from this pattern.

Monday, October 7, 2013

Free knitted Hobbes pattern

I'm so excited about this!
I've had quite a few knitters ask me
if I could convert my pattern into knitting.
Unfortunately I don't have the skills to do that.

So I was really happy when I received
a message from fellow Ravelry member seesarahknit.
 along with this cute picture of her knitted Hobbes.

 I'll let her tell the rest.
Thank you Sarah for having the skills to
convert it and the kindness to share it.
And here's the link to
Make sure you check out her avatar
 (her adorable cat named Zoe).
And here is the link to
My crochet Hobbbes pattern
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
When I first saw suki’s adorable Hobbes, I showed it to my husband, who promptly exclaimed that he wanted one! But, there was a problem...I can’t crochet. So, I converted suki’s pattern to make a knitted Hobbes, instead. Below is the supply list, abbreviations, and pattern for all the Hobbes parts.

Please note: If you have questions about knitting the pattern, feel free to contact me on Ravelry @ seesarahknit. If you have questions about assembling Hobbes, or any non-knitting Hobbes related questions, please contact suki on Ravelry @ sukigirl74.

Disclaimer: Please do not sell this pattern or sell items produced by it. See suki’s note on her pattern post.
Disclaimer 2: This has not been test knitted or reviewed by anyone but me. If something doesn’t make sense, give me a holler! If you want to see my knitted Hobbes, go here: http://ravel.me/seesarahknit/mfhp.

Many thanks to suki for her kind permission to write up this pattern, and even more thanks for sharing it on her blog.

Enjoy!
Sarah C.



 Hobbes knitting pattern

 Supplies needed:

Size 6 dpns or circular needles long enough to do magic loop. 
Gauge is not super important...you just want to make sure your stuffing doesn’t show through.
1 skein orange yarn (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Terracotta)
1 skein black yarn (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Black)
1 skein white yarn (I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in White)
(A note on yarn choice: Any Worsted/Aran weight will do...I used acrylics because they’re durable and wash easily. I used less than 170 yds of each color).
Yarn needle
Stitch marker to mark beginning of rounds
1 piece black felt
Black thread/embroidery floss
Sewing needle
Polyfill stuffing


Abbreviations:
 K= knit
P: purl
St/sts: Stitch(es)
Kfb: Knit through the front and the back of the st
Ssk: slip slip knit
K2tog: Knit 2 sts together
M1l: Make 1 st Left
M1r: make 1 st Right
CO: Cast on
BO: Bind off
St st: stockinette stitch

You should also know how to knit jogless stripes in the round.
  
Head
 In orange, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.
Row 1: CO 8 sts, join in the round
Row 2: k all
Row 3: kfb 1x on each needle. 12 sts
Row 4:k all
Row 5: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 18 sts
Row 6: k all
Row 7: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.
Row 8: k all
Row 9: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 30 sts.
Row 10: K all
Row 11: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 36 sts.
Row 12: k all
Row 13: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 42 sts.
Row 14: K all
Row 15: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd .48 sts.
Rows 16-17: k all.

Now start the stripes on back of head.

Row 18, 19, 20, 21: k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)
Rows 22-24:  work even in orange
Rows 25, 26, 27, 28: k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)
Rows 29-31: work even in orange
Rows 32, 33, 34, 35: k16 sts in orange then 32 sts in black (48 st)
There will be some small holes where you changed colors 
(and this is the only part that will have them.) 
Stitch them together before you stuff the head.

The rest of the head is worked in orange only.
Rows 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43: work even in orange.
Row 44: [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 42 sts.
Row 45-46: k all
Row 47: [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 36 sts.
Row 48-50: k all
Row 51: [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 30 sts
Row 52-54: k all
Row 55: [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 24 sts.
Row 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61: k all. BO, leave long tail for sewing on head.

 Ears (Make two)
These are just 2 triangles 

In black, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

Row 1: CO 4 sts, join in the round
Row 2: k all
Row 3: k1, m1l, k until 1 st remains on needle 1 until 1 st remains on needle 4, m1r, k 1(8 sts).
Row 4: k all
Row 5: k1, m1l, k until 1 st remains on needle 1 until 1 st remains on needle 4, m1r, k 1 (10 sts).
Row 6: k all
Row 7: k1, m1l, k until 1 st remains on needle 1 until 1 st remains on needle 4, m1r, k 1 (12 sts).
Row 8: k all
Row 9: k1, m1l, k until 1 st remains on needle 1 until 1 st remains on needle 4, m1r, k 1 (14 sts).
Rows 10-14: K all. CO, leave enough yarn to sew to head. Stuff ears and hand press them to make them look like ears.


Tail
Start from tip of the tail. Stuff tail as you go.

In black, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

Row 1: CO 6 sts, join in the round
Row 2: k all
row 3: Needle 1: k1, kfb, k until 1 st remains on needle, kfb, k1. 
Needle 2: k1, kfb, k until 1 st remains on needle, kfb, k1. 
Needle 3: K all. 
Needle 4: k1, kfb, k until 1 st remains on needle, kfb, k1(12 st)
Row 4: k all
Row 5:  increase 2 sts on Needle 1only. K rest of sts.(14 st)
Row 6:k  all
Rows 7-9: Switch to orange. K even on all 3 rows.
Rows 10-13:Switch to black. K even on all 3 rows.

Repeat Rows 7-13 until you have 13 orange stripes and 13 black stripes.
Then add another stripe of orange (repeat row 7-9 once).

BO, and leave tail long enough to sew tail onto body.

Body:
Starting from bottom up.
In orange, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round,
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

Row 1: CO 8 sts, join in the round
Row 2: k all
Row 3: kfb 1x on each needle. 12 sts
Row 4: k all
Row 5: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 18 sts
Row 6: k all
Row 7: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.
Row 8: k all
Row 9: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 30 sts.
Row 10: K all
Row 11: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 36 sts.
Row 12: k all
Row 13: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 42 sts.
Row 14: K all
Row 15: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd . 48 sts.
Rows 16-17: K all even
Rows 18-21: Switch to black. K all even.
Rows 22-25: Switch to orange. K all even
Work rows 18-25 until you have 6 stripes of each color. Then, start decreasing.

Decrease section:
Row 1: Switch to black. [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 42 sts.
Rows2-4: k all
Row 5: Switch to orange. [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 36 sts.
Rows 6-8: k all
Row 9: Switch to black. [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 30 sts
Row 10-12: k all
Row 13: Switch to orange. [k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1]* repeat to end of round. 24sts.
Rows 14-16: k all

BO, leaving a long enough tail to sew head to body.

Muzzle

Knit flat! Use size 6 needles.

CO 8 sts.
Row 1: k all
Row 2: p all sts
Row 3: k 1, m1L, k (and add 2 more sts evenly) until 1 st remains, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
Row 4: p all sts
Row 5: k 1, m1L, k (and add 4 more sts evenly) until 1 st remains, m1R, k1. 18 sts.
Row 6: p all sts
Row 7: k 1, m1L, k (and add 1 more sts evenly) until 1 st remains, m1R, k1. 21 sts.
Row 8: p all sts
Work in stst for approx. 28 rows. End on p row. (Note: it is a good idea to check how long the muzzle is getting about 18-20 rows in. Once the muzzle is about ½-1” shorter than desired length, start decreasing as indicated below)

Decrease section:
Row 1: k1, ssk, k (and decrease evenly 1 more st) until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
Row 2: p all
Row 3: k1, ssk, k (and decrease evenly 4 more sts) until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
Row 4: p all
Row 5: k1, ssk, k (and decrease evenly 2 more sts) until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
Row 6: p all

BO, and leave a very long tail to sew muzzle to head. Stuff muzzle lightly as you sew it to head. I would recommend sewing on the nose and mouth before you sew on the muzzle, or at least making sure you haven’t sewn on the entire muzzle/stuffed it fully before adding on the nose and mouth.

Legs (make 2)
 In white, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

CO 8 sts, join in round.
Row 1: K all
Row 2: K1, Kfb, k to end of needle one time on each of 4 needles.12 sts.
Row 3: K all
Row 4: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rndK 1 row. 18 sts.
Row 5: k all
Row 6: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.
Rows 7-16: Kall even
Rows 17-20: Switch to black. K all even
Row 21-24: Switch to orange. K all even

Repeat rows 17-24 until you have 4 stripes of each color. 
BO, leaving enough orange yarn to sew to body.


Arms (make 2)
In white, using sz 6 dpns, CO in the round, 
being careful to mark the beg of rnd and not to twist sts.

CO 8 sts, join in round.
Row 1: K all
Row 2: K1, Kfb, k to end of needle one time on each of 4 needles. 12 sts.
Row 3: K all
Row 4: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd K 1 row. 18 sts.
Row 5: k all
Row 6: [k1, M1L, k to 1 st before end of needle, M1R, k 1]* to end of rnd. 24 sts.
Rows 7-16: K all even
Rows 17-20: Switch to black. K all even
Row 21-24: Switch to orange. K all even
Rows 25-26: Switch to black. K all even.BO, leaving a long enough tail to sew arms to body.


Tummy patch:
 Knit flat.

Using size 6 needles, CO 6 sts.
Row 1: k all
Row 2: p all
Row 3: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 8 sts.
Row 4: P all
Row 5: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 10 sts.
Row 6: P all
Row 7: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 12 sts.
Row 8: P all
Row 9: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 14 sts.
Row 10: P all
Row 11: K1 m1L, k to 1 st before end, m1r, k1. 16 sts.
Row 12: P all

Measure work at this point¾you’ll want to stop knitting evenly when you get that distancefrom your desired height.

Work evenly in st.st until work measures about 1 ½” (or however high your increase section was) from desired height.

Start decreasing:
Row 1: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
Row 2: P all
Row 3: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
Row 4: P all
Row 5: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
Row 6: P 1 row
Row 7: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
Row 8: P all
Row 9: K1, ssk, k to three sts before end, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
Row 10: P all

BO and leave long enough tail to sew patch onto body. Do not stuff!

After you’re done knitting, sew on the muzzle and tummy patch. Attach ears and limbs and tail. Using the felt, cut out two eyes and two stripes for the top of Hobbes’ head. Pin everything in place before you sew it on to ensure you’re happy with the placement.



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